Scolopendra hainanum (Chinese Tiger Centipede) care guide

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The Striped Warning: A Care Guide for Scolopendra hainanum (The Chinese Tiger Centipede)

Scolopendra hainanum, often known as the Chinese Tiger Centipede due to its striking yellow/orange and black banding, is a large, fast, and undeniably impressive myriapod native to Hainan Island, China. For experienced invertebrate keepers seeking a captivating and challenging pet, S. hainanum can be a rewarding species. However, they are absolutely not for beginners and require strict adherence to safety protocols due to their speed, defensive nature, and potent venom.

This guide outlines the essential care requirements for keeping a Scolopendra hainanum successfully and safely.

Disclaimer: Venom and Safety First!

Before considering Scolopendra hainanum (or any large Scolopendra), understand this: their bite is medically significant and extremely painful. It can cause severe localized pain, swelling, numbness, headaches, nausea, and sometimes more serious systemic reactions. There is no antivenom.

This is NOT a pet to handle.

Secure, escape-proof housing is paramount.

Always use long tools (tweezers, catch cups) for any interaction.

Be aware of your local laws regarding venomous invertebrates.

If bitten, seek immediate medical attention.

1. Enclosure: Security and Space are Key

Type: The most critical aspect is security. A robust glass or acrylic tank with a tight-fitting, locking lid is essential. Standard mesh reptile lids often aren't secure enough; centipedes can push or chew through them. Consider adding clips or weight. Ensure ventilation is present but too small for escape. Side vents covered with fine mesh are safer than large screen tops.

Size: While they will use vertical space, floor space is more important for these terrestrial hunters and burrowers. A minimum of a 10-gallon tank equivalent is recommended for a full-grown adult, but larger (15-20 gallon equivalent) provides better thermal/humidity gradients and more room for burrowing. Remember, they are long and fast.

Substrate: Provide a deep layer (4-6 inches minimum) of a suitable burrowing substrate. A good mix includes coco fiber, peat moss, and possibly some cypress mulch. This should be kept moist but not waterlogged. The depth allows the centipede to create burrows where it feels secure and can regulate its own microclimate.

Hides: In addition to burrowing space, provide a surface hide like a piece of cork bark, half a log, or a ceramic cave. This gives them options for resting above ground.

2. Temperature & Humidity: Recreating the Tropics

Temperature: S. hainanum is a tropical species and does best in temperatures ranging from 75°F to 85°F (24°C to 29°C). Avoid temperatures significantly outside this range. Room temperature is often sufficient if within this range. If heating is needed, a heat mat controlled by a thermostat is recommended. Place it on the side of the tank (using the substrate depth for temperature gradient) or partially underneath, never covering the whole bottom, to allow the centipede to move to cooler zones if needed. Avoid overhead heat lamps as they dry out the substrate too quickly.

Humidity: High humidity is crucial, ideally between 70% and 80%. This is primarily maintained by keeping the deep substrate appropriately moist. Periodically misting a portion of the substrate (not the centipede directly) helps. Ensure there is adequate ventilation to prevent stagnant air, which can lead to mold or respiratory issues, but not so much that humidity drops too quickly.

3. Feeding: Live Prey

Food Items: Scolopendra hainanum are obligate carnivores and prefer live prey. Appropriately sized insects like crickets, roaches (Dubia, discoids), and occasionally large mealworms or superworms are suitable. The prey item should generally be smaller than the centipede's body length. Very large adults may occasionally take a reptilink or a pre-killed mouse, but feeding frequency should be carefully monitored, and live insects are the staple.

Frequency: Juveniles eat more often (1-2 times per week). Adults can be fed less frequently, perhaps once every week to two weeks, depending on the size of the meal and the centipede's body condition (look for a slightly plump abdomen). Do not overfeed.

Method: Carefully drop prey items into the enclosure using long tweezers. Never use your hands.

Removing Uneaten Prey: Always remove uneaten live prey after 24 hours. Crickets and roaches can stress or even injure a molting centipede, and decaying food attracts mites and can cause mold.

4. Water: Always Available

Provide a shallow, heavy water dish (like a ceramic reptile dish) that won't be easily tipped over or filled with substrate. Ensure it is always filled with fresh water. While they get some moisture from their food and substrate humidity, a water source is still important.

5. Handling: Just Don't.

Seriously, do not handle your Chinese Tiger Centipede. Admire them from outside the enclosure. Use long tools for maintenance. Their speed and potent venom make direct contact incredibly risky.

6. Molting: A Vulnerable Time

Like all arthropods, centipedes molt to grow. Signs of an impending molt include becoming lethargic, refusing food, and spending a lot of time in their burrow or hide.

Do Not Disturb: This is a highly vulnerable period. Leave the centipede completely alone.

Maintain Humidity: High humidity is critical for a successful molt.

Leave Exoskeleton: Do not immediately remove the shed exoskeleton after molting. The centipede may consume it to reclaim nutrients. Remove it only after the centipede emerges and is clearly sclerotized (hardened), which can take several days to a week or more for very large individuals.

7. Cleaning: Careful Maintenance

Spot Cleaning: Regularly spot clean the enclosure, removing any waste, uneaten food, or shed exoskeletons using long tweezers.

Full Substrate Change: A full substrate change is needed periodically (every few months to a year depending on tank size and cleanliness). This is the most high-risk activity. Carefully coax the centipede into a secure holding container before cleaning. Never attempt to clean with the centipede loose in the tank.

Sanitation: Use reptile-safe disinfectants when necessary, ensuring the enclosure is thoroughly rinsed and dry/aired out before returning the substrate and centipede.

8. Potential Problems

Escape: The most common and dangerous problem. Review your enclosure security regularly.

Mites: Can occur in overly wet or unsanitary conditions (uneaten food). Improve ventilation, remove uneaten food, and consider beneficial predatory mites if necessary (research carefully).

Dehydration/Over-hydration: Incorrect temperature and humidity levels can lead to issues. Monitor the substrate moisture carefully.

Refusing Food: Can be due to pre-molt, incorrect temperature/humidity, or stress. Rule out environmental issues first.

Conclusion

Keeping a Scolopendra hainanum is a significant commitment that demands respect for an animal with potent defenses. Their vibrant colors and active hunting behavior make them a fascinating addition to a skilled invertebrate collection. By providing a secure, appropriately sized environment with correct temperature, humidity, and feeding, coupled with rigorous safety practices, you can safely enjoy observing this incredible "Chinese Tiger." Remember, safety for both keeper and centipede is always the priority.